Monday, February 4, 2008

Freiburg for Riverdance

We made another trip last week, this time to Freiburg, Germany, and it felt good to be back on the road. We really enjoy train travel, and we haven't really done any since we returned from Italy. (And no, the 11-minute trip to Kehl to buy the train tickets doesn't count!)

When we booked the tickets, we asked about a Bahn card, which entitles you to discounts on all of your German train tickets. We're still not sure if they're only available to German citizens or anyone with a European address. The ticket man, who has come to know our story fairly well, asked if we had a Strasbourg address when we told him where we are living. We were able to get the card, but we think it might be due to the special relationship that Strasbourg has with Germany, Strasbourg being so close the border.

The train trip was short and fairly uneventful. It was the first time that we have used second-class tickets, although not the first time we've been in a second class car, as some trains only have second class. It was not necessarily our choice to travel first class at the beginning of the trip (but it's kinda nice!); however, our Eurail passes could only be purchased for first class. It didn't make much of a difference to us financially when we purchased the Eurail passes last June, as both Mark and I were still working. However, now that we're relying on our savings to buy our tickets, we can only justify first class if it's not much more expensive than second. Most European trains are fairly comfortable, so it doesn't really make sense to splurge for first class, especially on the short runs.

We did splurge, however, on the hotel, and I was in for a surprise when we got there. I discovered that I don't really like expensive, sanitized, western-style hotels anymore. The environment in the room is very sterile, and you don't get any sense of the culture. Sitting in that hotel in Freiburg, Germany, I could have been in any city in Canada or the US, except for the fact that I couldn't understand the TV channels (ok , so I could understand BBC World News!) Prior to this we have rented private furnished apartments, and even though I have often resented hoofing it through an unknown city looking for the apartment after a long train ride, the exercise really does give you an idea of the layout and culture of the place. Contrast that to our arrival in Freiburg , where we got off the train, looked out at the city and spotted our hotel, which was a two-minute walk from the train station. By the time we got to the hotel room, I felt disoriented. Luckily Mark and Cameron took off back to the train station, where they located a transit map, figured out how to get to the arena for the concert that night, and bought us tram/train tickets.

The Riverdance performance was pretty amazing. We've seen it on DVD before, so the element of surprise was gone, but it is absolutely awesome to hear the Irish step dancing in person. The arena just thunders with the impeccably timed sound of the many performing feet. I have a thing for loud rhythmic sounds, so the Celtic drumming also gives me a thrill (must be the Irish in me). At the end of the concert, we missed the train by about 10 minutes, and rather than waiting in the cold and dark station for the next one (about 45 minutes), we took a cab back to the hotel. It's lucky that we have Mark's German to fall back on - and lucky that he remembered the phone number to call - as I'm not sure we would have managed that one in English!

Mark and I got up early the next morning and left the kids in the hotel so that we could go out and explore the city centre. Freiburg has an amazing cathedral, one to rival Strasbourg's. Mark read that you have to climb 328 steps to reach the platform - surprisingly, almost the exact number of steps to Strasbourg's cathedral platform. We chose not to climb it but to save that little trek to do with kids some other time (by this time we'd already decided that we would come back). Another interesting feature of Freiburg is the gutters filled with running water. Legend has it that if you accidentally step into a gutter you will marry someone from Freiburg. Since I'm already married and the kids are far too young to wait around in Europe for marriage, we kept everyone well away from them! (This was not hard since the kids were lollygagging back at the hotel).

The trams are also amazing, another feature that Freiburg has in common with Strasbourg. They are narrower than Strasbourg's, and have a funkier look. Most are painted wild colours (no two the same). In order to ride the train to the concert the evening before, we had purchased 24-hour tickets, so after we gathered up the kids and checked out of the hotel, we hopped the tram and did a complete circuit of the city on two different tram lines. Admittedly, once you get out of the city centre, the view becomes a little more modern, plain and less interesting, but it was still fun to watch the city go by and relax at the same time.

After doing a bit of shopping in the underground boutiques at the train station (Meghan is still struggling to find things on which to spend her Christmas money), we hopped the train back to Strasbourg. Although brief, we all enjoyed it and are looking forward to our return later in the spring.

Contact us: mvieweg @ gmail.com or christinateskey @ yahoo.ca

See the pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/christina-t

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Saturday, January 19, 2008

Overnight Guest

This past week we had a somewhat unexpected visitor: Mark's brother Steve, who works for the Certified Management Accountants of Canada. He was in India for meetings, and when he found out that Strasbourg is only 87 miles from Frankfurt (one of his stopovers) he made arrangements to visit us. This entailed a flurry of emails back and forth between Mark and Steve. At one point Mark worriedly asked me to interpret one of Steve's messages, thinking that we had the date wrong and that Steve would arrive in Strasbourg in 15 minutes instead of the 24 hours we thought we had! It turns out that Steve tracks the plane from the moment it leaves the previous departure point so that he knows if his flight will leave on time. We'd never heard of that before, and it gave us a bit of a start! You might understand by now that we had a bit of cleaning to do. : )

After Steve arrived we had a very convivial afternoon and evening together. In the afternoon we condensed the whole tour of Strasbourg down to Petite France and the Notre Dame cathedral with a side of Place Kléber and Place de l'Homme de Fer on the way home. In the evening we had our traditional raclette and then watched with amazement as Steve managed to stay up until 10:30 p.m., despite the change in time zones and his only getting 4 hours of sleep on the plane the night before.

In the morning I had to rush off to French language school, but Mark and the kids had another short visit with Steve before escorting him back to the train station for his 10:49 a.m. departure to Frankfurt. All in all, it was a great visit, partly due to the fact that it was so unexpected, but mostly due to the fact that Steve is such a super guy (you can correct me on any of this if you like, Steve, as I can always edit my posts.) : )

Send a message and let us know how you're doing! Email works better than a bottle, and is less polluting:

mvieweg @ gmail.com
christinateskey @ yahoo.ca

Read the kids blog:

http://viewegkids.blogspot.com/

See our pictures on Flickr:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/christina-t/

Here's a short clip of an ambulance going by on our busy street:

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Musée d'Arts Moderne et Contemporain

Last Sunday we visited Strasbourg’s Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. In an effort by the French government to get more people out to museums, one can visit them for free on the first Sunday of each month. (I have read that they will be running a trial with 14 museums to include more free days).

It’s probably a good thing that we didn’t read about the museum in the Michellin Guide before we went, because I’m not sure I would have gone if I had! As it was, we gave ourselves about two hours, which is our maximum tolerance for standing around quietly staring at other people’s interpretations of “Sunset” or “Infinity” – and that’s just the adults. : ) We planned to be there right for the 10 a.m. opening in order to escape the hordes of people that we were sure would show up. However, owing to our usual inability to get everyone out the door in a timely manner (Mark says it’s like herding cats), we arrived at the museum about 30 minutes after opening. We had a bit of trouble getting in – we weren’t sure how the door worked, and there was no one around so we didn’t really know where to go. Once we got in through the cool circular entranceway, however, were treated to our free tickets and an almost empty museum through which to roam.

The museum holds both temporary and permanent items. We saw a photography exhibit; theatre, travel and newspaper posters from 1890-1910; paintings by Gustave Doré, who was born in Strasbourg; and many strange contemporary art installations including some dirty dish towels hanging from a rack, and an almost full-sized but completely empty house. Here are our favourites:

Cameron: a large installation of fluorescent lights tacked up on scrap plywood and two-by-fours that spans three rooms in the museum.


Mark: A copy of Rodin’s The Thinker. When we visited France two years ago, Mark was disappointed not to be able to go to Calais where he thought The Thinker was housed. (I find out now that it's at the Musée Rodin in Paris). He’s had a yen to see it ever since he read a book about Rodin’s life many years ago. It might not be the real thing, but it was neat to see anyway!


Meghan: A large contemporary painting.


Chris: It’s a toss-up between the stained-glass window panels and the tiled walls. Both of them appeal to the geometer in me.



We spent just over two hours at the museum and went home in time for lunch. It was a good morning. Part of the charm was that it was free, but we were all happily surprised by the interesting variety of art that we saw.

Drop us a line! We love to hear from you.

christinateskey @ yahoo.ca or mvieweg @ gmail.com

See our pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/christina-t/